Kali Sarda
-By John Eickert
The people who live in New Delhi are among the most fortunate on earth. Not only do they live in a pulsing energetic city, there is so much to do within a days traveling distance. Indeed, one of the most remote and secluded rafting opportunities is only
an express train away.
The Kali Sarda begins as a trickle amongst the glaciers and yak pastures hard against the Indian border with Tibet. The Kali Sarda flows south until it slows, and then merges into the great Ganga. The river forms the border with Nepal, the Nepalese call
this river the Mahakali. The jumping off point for a rafting adventure is in the rail end town of Kathgodam, which is just north of Haldwani. From there, it is a long, but scenic bus ride to the put in near Pithorgarh. The Kali Sarda marks an ancient route
between Tibet and India.
Just north of the border at the head of the Kali Sarda valley, is the sacred lake Mansarovar and sacred Mount Kailas. Pilgrims would trek north looking for spiritual guidance while traders came south with salt and other goods. This is also Corbett (Carpet
Sahib) country- though the national park bearing his name is further west. The names Kumoan, Champawat, and Chuka mark towns where Corbett dispatched man-eating cats. Since then the Indian terai has changed greatly and to find the track from a tiger or a leopard
along the lower Kali Sarda would be an unexpected pleasure.
Of mention is the hill station above Haldwani called Nainital. Nainital is known as the Switzerland of Asia, standing along the lakes and peaks a traveler might be reminded of Switzerland, well, er, maybe. Switzerland or no, Nainital is a beautiful place.
A rafting adventure down the Kali Sarda should take about seven days. Longer would be better and allow more time for bird watching. The Kali Sarda is an important flyway between the Tibetan plateau and the Gangetic plain for a wide variety of birds. Along
the river are several temples and ashrams; there are also waterfalls and delightful sand beaches. In the lower stretches, as the Kali Sarda nears the Gangetic plain, fishing should be good for mahseer. I have not fished this river, but I did see others fishing
and they said they were having good-luck. Isn’t that what fishermen the world over says?
A rafting adventure on this remote river could be booked in Delhi or in Haldwani. Though the river is not as difficult as others in India, the lack of roads and few villages creates a different feel. Where the high, cold Zanskar is rugged, rocky, and remote,
the Kali Sarda valley is lush and green, the air warm. In all, the Kali Sarda is a remarkable treasure so close to such a large city. The people of Delhi are lucky! This is the year for you to raft this river.
Plan now. Take the time and when you go take your time. Cheers.