Eco-travel
-Russell
Crisante' Fernandes
As we look towards the heavens for some respite from the heat and dust of the blazing Indian summer, it also means that most wildlife reserves across the country will close
for the monsoons for a time frame of anywhere between 3 to 4 months. And while it's time to put away those magnificent lenses and cameras that we use to cover our faces on profile pictures, it's perhaps time to review the situation.
During the past season, the debate over tourism within Tiger reserves reached a new crescendo. We heard both sides cry themselves hoarse over what is an agreeable middle path. It remains clear that neither side will get their way. The romantic conservationist
that wants to see every person barred from entering wildlife reserves will sooner or later have to come to terms that tourism is here to stay. And the opportunistic tour operators that will have to realize that pulling a dry udder may get you something besides
milk. Both sides are leaving the common person confused on whether they are contributing towards or raping the ecosystem they are visiting.
An email exchange with Dr. Prachi Mehta threw up some very interesting insights on how the African Model of tourism could be employed within Indian reserves. Since I have never visited the beautiful continent, I cannot comment much on the topic first hand.
But I will provide some details on different visitor models within India across the different reserves that I have visited and hopefully, it can lead to a more exhaustive debate on which ones can be implemented across the country at some stage.
The most common mode of entering wildlife reserves as a tourist is by hiring a 4wd, the most popular model being the Maruti Gypsy. It is a photographer’s dream vehicle as one can stand up or hang out of the sides with ease. The positioning of the seats also
makes it convenient to move from one row to another, depending on the view or angle of a photograph that is desired. It is a mode of transport that is prevalent in Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Kaziranga, Gir and Ranthambhore, to name a few.
The one mode of transport that I am dead against, although this may not endear me to many, is entering by private vehicle. Invariably, you will see people stepping out of their vehicles as the side door frames and hard top are not convenient for photography
or even a decent look at the animals or birds. Furthermore, another subject of contention is the ability of the driver to understand a relatively unknown terrain as compared to a hired local that knows the limits of his vehicle and the landscape a lot better.
Lastly, there is less incentive for a hired driver to break the rules as it could invite suspension of his license and there is no stronger motivator than the potential loss of income. How effectively that deterrent is used is another subject, but to me it
still remains the lesser of the 2 evils.
Looking at the Ranthambhore model, the process of allotting seats for entry into the reserve lies with the Forest Department. The early birds get the best seats in a Maruti Gypsy that accommodates 6 people besides the driver and the guide. One those fill up,
the rest of the seats are sold on Canters which can hold anywhere between 20 to 24 people. This model ensures proper utilization of space within a vehicle and limits the entry of the number of automobiles within a park. Over the years, images of Ranthambhore's
small forest roads across the hilly terrain being packed with Gypsys and Canters full of tourists trying to catch a glimpse of a passing Tiger has led to some fumes and the occasional case of bad gas. But it is a model that needs to be studied better, as apart
from the unattractive traffic jams that take place occasionally it is a more sensible approach towards reducing carbon footprint within a protected area.
If one moves further South towards Bandipur, there is a similar model being run by the forest department. While a limited number of operators are allowed to take guests into the reserve in Gypsys, there is also a bus service that is run by the Forest Department.
This run is limited to the main roads and accommodates the crowds that are for various reasons not as keen or able to make the 4 hour trip by Gypsy. The crowd control within these 'Joy Rides' is appealing as the atmosphere is more like a college party on spring
break, sans the bikinis. However, this model that has its advantages since it provides an opportunity to keep a large amount of the crowd on a limited run and have them exit the reserve as soon as it is completed. It would be counterproductive though if an
equal number of Bus rides were provided for Gypsys taken off, as the carrying capacity of the reserve needs to be measured not just in vehicular impact but also in pure numbers of tourists.
Other debatable methods of managing Tourism have been practiced in the Dikhala zone of Corbett Tiger Reserve, where entry is limited strictly to visitors that have a permit to stay in one of the sought after Forest Rest Houses or to those that have availed
of the Forest Department’s canter ride. A belated debate has arisen about the viability of the Dikhala complex being present within a sensitive zone, so it can be assured that such a model may not be repeated within any of the other parks. Corbett, one of
our flagship parks, has been in the news for all the wrong reasons of late and one hopes that all stakeholders can work out a solution that not only benefits the park, but sets a roadmap for others across the country.
The only common thread between all the wildlife reserves across the country is perhaps the deplorable behavior of most of the visitors and the lack of will power to curb it. It was shameful to see a tourist actually spit at a guide for not showing him a Tiger
at Corbett (Where else?) and then wonder why he was being reported for ‘Exposing a scam’. For all the criticism they may have received in the past, the management at Gir are doing a commendable job when it comes to monitoring the behavior of their guests and
are not shy of collecting the fines that will ultimately serve a dual purpose of deterrence and filling coffers the right way. Perhaps other visitors to Gir may have a different take based on their experiences, but it is critical that the enforcement of rules
is not an afterthought.
Whichever way one looks at it, Tourism has it’s pros and cons. The debate can either go on ceaselessly about it’s viability or we can look at a solution that benefits primarily the wildlife and the communities that live around it. Personally, arguments from
both sides have probably done more disservice to the cause of the respective lobbies rather than strengthen their position. Conservation as a whole is failing in too many spheres to put all the blame solely at the doorstep of Tourism. And Tour Operators are
doing too little to convince the nation that their intentions are anything other than material. The time has come to put personal agendas and egos aside, even if temporarily, and concentrate on solutions instead of slogans.
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